Where fear gives way to hope: more tourists to the predominantly Kurdish Diyarbakir
In the southeast of Turkey, heavy fighting took place eleven years ago between the Turkish army and the Kurdish PKK. Nowadays, there is renewed hope for peace. In recent years, it has become calmer and since the peace process between the government and the PKK began, the region is even being promoted to boost tourism.
You see more and more residents from different parts of Turkey traveling to the southeast and thus discovering their own country. And not without reason, according to a visitor from Istanbul: "Diyarbakir is the Paris of the East."
A region that was isolated for years now seems to be cautiously coming to the fore. Among residents and entrepreneurs, fear is giving way to hope. "Of course, you can never say with 100 percent certainty that something will never happen again," says tour guide Berkay Ozbilge from Diyarbakir. "But hopefully it won't."
The predominantly Kurdish Diyarbakir is built on a crossroads of cultures. September and October are popular months to visit the city in the southeast. It is therefore busy in the historic center.
Diyarbakir has a lot to offer, says Serdar Baturay, who has worked in the tourism sector for 21 years. "There is religious heritage from various faith communities, but there are also the historic city walls and the Hevsel gardens that are on the UNESCO World Heritage list."
Millions of tourists
The goal is five million tourists by 2032. According to Turkish media, in the first eight months of this year, 1.3 million tourists from home and abroad visited the city.
Among them are Turks from Northern and Western Europe. A Turkish Dutch woman visiting with her husband says to NOS: "It is a city with a rich history and that attracts us very much. We also find the people here very friendly."
For some visitors, a trip to Diyarbakir is extra special. "I was born here, but I haven't been here for 18 years," says a woman on the street. During the years of unrest in the region, she did not dare to return. "That's why I find it quite exciting now."
The Turkish Dutch woman visited Diyarbakir earlier, in 2018, after a very turbulent period and heavy fighting. "We already felt safe then, but now it feels more familiar." According to her, the peace negotiations have a positive effect on the city. You can see that on the streets, she says.
Fighting in 2015
In 2015, Diyarbakir was still the scene of fighting between the Kurdish PKK and the Turkish state. Large parts of city neighborhoods were destroyed. Thousands of people fled. Now it is calm again in the city.
The Turkish government and the PKK have been engaged in peace negotiations for some time. This was preceded by a bloody conflict of at least forty years in which 40,000 people lost their lives. The loss of loved ones still leaves deep scars with many families. The peace process is therefore seen as an important step.
Yet there are concerns among residents whether these negotiations will lead to lasting peace and more rights for the Kurds. This is also because in the past peace talks ended in failure.
'It's all behind us'
At the same time, many residents appreciate the current calm and long for economic stability. A shopkeeper in the historic center explains that there are still people afraid to come.
"They think everyone here carries a weapon. That's how they know this place. Those who have never been here and have not seen it with their own eyes do not know what it is really like. But when they come here and see it with their own eyes, they say: 'Oh, how beautiful it is here.'"
Tour guide Berkay Ozbilge, who has a bus full of tourists in sight, says: "After people have seen the nightlife of Diyarbakir, all those prejudices disappear. Just like in Istanbul, nightlife in Diyarbakir and in the eastern region simply continues. Curfews and night bans, the order to stay at home; that time is over. It's all behind us."